Herein lies the challenge for today’s jewellery professional: how to capture the zeitgeist of the present season with the perfect product for consumers armed with information about “what’s hot” from countless webcasts, blogs, magazines and more.
Events like L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival always include forecasters on their speaker lists, while larger retailers employ consultant forecasters. For the others, well, most retailers must rely on the good word of their suppliers and their own gut instincts. Gary Holloway from Holloway Diamonds thinks “Gen-Y web chatter” has more impact than forecasts and is struck by how informed today’s customer is, throwing around terms like “halo cluster” and “shared prongs”. To keep up with today’s tastes, Holloway believes, “it’s much easier than ever before to read the e-forums jewellery junkies hang out at”.
Melissa Hoyer is editor-at-large of Grazia magazine, best known for her television and radio work as a fashion and pop culture commentator. She has covered Paris and Milan fashions shows, reporting on red carpet and celebrity trends at the Oscar and Emmy awards, so she takes a keen interest in the evolution of trends. Hoyer was pleased to be invited to a recent Paspaley luncheon where various “it” girls were invited to dine in style wearing South Sea pearls and diamonds.
While she might not think this will automatically translate to hoards of Sydney women “maxing” their credit cards to buy such pieces, she does think “the desire starts here”.
“Gorgeous 25-year-olds in clutches of pearls, designed and worn in modern and relevant ways – maybe it does register in the psyche,” she says, adding, “The pearl is cool. They may buy high-end costume replicas to start with but, down the track, who knows?“
Pearls may well complement some of the fashion looks coming through for the warmer months. “There are lots of floaty, flirty looks, lots of short skirts and colour, colour, colour,” Hoyer continues. “Colours and prints are the two major themes I see – washed-out water colours, reminiscent of the French Impressionists, and ink-blot-like patterns.”
Ewan Tremellen, jewellery designer and manufacturer of Tre Jewellery, is putting his money on colour too, stating, “For the coming season, I’ll be doing colourful cocktail rings and necklaces because they are my passion. Statement silver designs allow me to have fun and be creative. I’ll also offer some amazing diamond jewellery for wow factor.”
According to Hoyer, the cocktail ring of five or six years ago really set the agenda: “Women might have started with the copy but the ambition for the ‘real’ thing began. I think every girl wants her own pair of diamond stud earrings, whether she buys them for herself or not – it’s like having a real cashmere sweater or a pair of genuine Jimmy Choos.”
Diamonds continue as a girl’s best friend.Leanne Fine from Passion8 Diamonds says that diamonds offer versatility: ”Our new Shapes range plays on the buyer’s desire for creativity, by encouraging the wearer to layer items.”
Robin Sobel from Protea Diamonds says, “The newest lines we’re putting in our range are black and white diamonds in earrings, rings and pendants, plus large cabochon and checkerboard coloured stones.”
Gary Holloway is on a similar track: “Overseas, flat slices of rough gems are popular in necklaces and earrings, leading the trend back to gold, but we have had a lot of interest in tassels of black diamond beads, and black and white, pavé-set, white gold jewellery – the black and white pavé trend was everywhere at Hong Kong, Basel and Vegas trade shows.”
This trend has seeped through to pearls as well with Rosario Autore from Autore Pearls, saying, “After a couple of years of controversy, black seems to have made a comeback. You can see this not only in the more exclusive Autore Couture range, but also in the more affordable Essential or Boutique lines. A very interesting contrast follows the Yin Yang/Feng Shui concept when mixed with rubies, which appeals very much to the Russian and East European clientele,” he says, adding that Autore’s strategy of utilising celebrities “has certainly helped to raise the profile of the brand worldwide”. “Celebrities strongly influence consumer behaviour,” Autore explains. “We believe it allows consumers to identify with the personality of the celebrity, and importantly, the message the brand is trying to portray.”
What’s happening on the big screen is important too. “I haven’t seen a stronger season for neckpieces,” says
Sarah Gale another forecaster and judge on Project Runway Australia. “Look at Sex and the City 2 – it’s full of fabulous statement pieces, which will definitely affect the market. They can be worn over tops and dresses to transform them.”
Gale also thinks the bib necklace will remain popular. “There are lots of geometric shapes out there – vinyl or leather backgrounds, acrylics, resins, Perspex and metal.”
Back in the wardrobe,
Angie Rehe is also confident that white will prove to be “one of the strongest colours of the season”. Rehe is a Melbourne-based trend reporter for international fashion trend forecasting website WGSN. “Think ‘beachy’, floaty, Broderie Anglaise,” she explains. “It will also be contrasted with brights, such as acid yellow, turquoise and fluorescent pink. There will be loads of floral prints of all varieties – mini, medium, large and tropical.”
Agreeing with Rehe, Gale sees the “ethereal look” taking off, especially with a colour palette that she calls “cosmetic pastels”. “We’ll see plenty of tops with trims and soft frills and there will be transparency and corsetry.”
This look means smaller, daintier jewels will be required, and the forecasters agree that the charm bracelet will continue in different forms – Hoyer still wears the one she got at 13, which has 50 charms on it now. Small stones, crystals and similar will suit this look. “Rose quartz crystal, hearts, fine necklaces – they’re all very feminine and romantic,” Gale says.
“Hearts are always strong for us,” says Robyn Wilson, owner and designer of Fabienne. Her company has been trading in Australia and NZ for 23 years as a wholesaler to the retail market and offers seven distinct collections: French, Etruscan, Crystal, Beaded, Bronze, Semi-Precious and Sterling Silver.
“The wrist is very important this season, with lots of woven chords, beads that wrap around with leather and so forth to allow the customer to layer pieces, creating her own look,” Wilson continues. “Our most successful bracelet has been a silver-plated stretch one with carved owls on it. We also do owl brooches.”
Wilson works hard to keep abreast of overseas trends by travelling through Europe, Asia and the USA. “I find our customers are quite confident with our choices,” she says. “We produce good quality, well-designed collections and I guess we’re considered a ‘safe bet’.”
After the opening up of the Chinese market and an influx of inexpensive jewellery, Wilson believes that local clientele is starting to opt for quality again: “It’s bringing around a healthier taste level in our market. I think jewellery retailers can separate themselves now from the masses by offering quality products.”
“Pandora encouraged people to buy at a higher level,” she adds. “Semi-precious stones and charms got people used to spending $100 to $300, which has helped our collections. In the USA, they call it ‘bridge’ jewellery – a stepping stone between costume and fine.”
Wilson agrees with Hoyer’s comments about colour, adding, “We were heavily into silver last year but we’ll be offering a lot of gold by Christmas. Fuchsia, lime and turquoise – always a winner – will all be there.”
In fact, blue is almost a story of its own, according to Gale, and Rehe says that turquoise will be “the standout colour for jewellery”. “It works back perfectly with both white garments and the strong denim and chambray cowgirl looks,” she adds. Key silhouettes include “a high-rise sailor pant with a big, wide leg, mini shorts – pleated with waist belts – and tops and dresses with layered ruffles.”
Other dominant looks for Gale include one she calls “Tarzan meets Charlie’s Angels”, which includes exotic prints and encompasses Hoyer’s water colours. It will lend itself to lots of long-beaded and rope-style jewellery, while bangles and cuffs will also suit.
Denim makes a comeback in shirts, dresses, vests and pants also, and the nautical theme, seen last summer, remains. “Nautical can blend with safari to suit lots of white and stone pieces, and also take in gorgeous tangerines and reds,” says Gale.
As Robin Sobel puts it, “The most striking trend to come out of jewellery lately is the amount of customers looking for bigger, better quality merchandise. We find the consumer is more educated and wants better value and better quality, larger goods, and they’re happy to pay.”
Where does this come from? According to Hoyer, women look at the Oscars and even local red carpet events for inspiration for hair styles, makeup and definitely jewellery. “Remember the rise of the chandelier earring?” she asks. “That was just one season of Award shows.”
Retailers should select their Spring/Summer stock with these upcoming ethereal, dream-like looks in mind.