Diamonds may be forever; however, when making a statement, few gemstones can match the intensity of pearl jewellery.
Whether in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, or rings, pearls offer a timeless allure and an enchanting glow that has captivated hearts and minds for centuries.
That said, the majesty and beauty of pearl jewellery once presented a double-edged sword for consumers and retailers alike.
Because pearl jewellery is precious, it was reserved for only the most formal of occasions – weddings and funerals, for example – and, as a result, developed a reputation for being impractical.
If pearl jewellery is only reserved for rare occasions, it becomes impractical to own for consumers – and challenging to sell for retailers.
After all, consumers purchase jewellery with the intention of actually wearing it!
The good news is that there’s been a significant shift in recent years.
Designers are increasingly pushing the envelope and creating practical, everyday jewellery using pearls.
This improvement in design, when paired with wave after wave of celebrity endorsement for high-profile pieces and everyday adornments, has led to a revitalisation of the category.
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| Allure |
“I recently asked a twenty-something shop assistant where her pearls were from (a short necklace nestled above a few chains and pendants), and she answered bashfully: Oh, they’re my mum’s. She’s not happy I’ve pinched them!” writes Shane Watson for The Daily Mail.
“And that nicely sums up the new position of pearls. Twelve months ago, her mum couldn’t have cared less if her daughter had pinched her pearls. Last year, pearls were for the kids to layer, boys included.”
He continues: “But now pearl necklaces are like colourful Gazelle suede trainers — great whatever your age, and the detail that makes you look a bit in-the-know.
"Pearls are flattering, too, somehow lighting up your face, which is probably the reason pearl drop earrings have been the hottest jewellery item of the past couple of years.”
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| L to R: La Peregrina, Elizabeth Taylor wearing La Peregrina, Anne Boleyn (Natalie Dormer) |
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Icons of yesterday
While pearls have never reached the popularity of diamonds or other gemstones such as rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, one thing is clear – when worn as jewellery, pearls exude prestige.
“What’s not to love about pearls? They’re versatile, they’re elegant, and they’re timeless. As a renowned fail-safe in the jewellery world, they’re appropriate for weddings, funerals, and all the mundane life events in between,” writes Hana Tilksew for Evie Magazine.
“Throughout history, pearls have been so desirable that kings and emperors have passed laws dictating who was allowed to wear them.
"Thankfully, in today’s day and age, everyone has the right to adorn themselves with as many pearls as their heart desires. Don’t let this right go to waste by thinking pearls belong to a bygone era – they’ll be relevant forever.”
The historical importance of pearl jewellery is well known - pearls have been worn to symbolise status and wealth for thousands of years.
Glowing strands of oceanic treasures have adorned the hands, ears, necklines and heads of kings, queens, and emperors worldwide.
Egyptian Queen Cleopatra famously wore earrings, which were believed to feature the largest pearls ever discovered at the time.
During her relationship with Roman General Marcus Antonius, she famously dissolved one of the pearls into a cup of vinegar, drinking the concoction after it dissolved. Cleopatra’s toast to Anthony was considered an aphrodisiac.
It was only fitting then that when British-American actress Elizabeth Taylor appeared in Joseph Mankiewicz’s 1963 film ‘Cleopatra’, she was adorned in remarkable pearls.
In the film, Taylor wears a necklace featuring the legendary La Peregrina pearl, a gemstone with a fascinating history. The pearl was discovered in the early 1500s in Panama and was worn by royalty for hundreds of years.
It was placed at auction at Sotheby’s in 1969 and was purchased by none other than Richard Burton, husband of Elizabeth Taylor, who starred opposite her in ‘Cleopatra’. Burton had purchased the pearl as a Valentine’s Day gift.
After Taylor’s death, La Peregrina returned to auction in 2011. The pearl was expected to return around $US3 million; however, it generated an unprecedented $US11.8 million.
Queen of England Anne Boleyn adored pearl jewellery. The details of her marriage to King Henry VIII are well known, and while it was a short relationship, her legacy as an ardent supporter of pearl jewellery lives on.
Boleyn’s royal portrait includes a remarkable 37-inch rope of large nature pearls, and her gown is decorated with even more aquatic treasures. Her daughter, Queen Elizabeth I, reportedly had hundreds of dresses decorated with pearls.
In the television series ‘The Tudors’, actress Natalie Dormer portrays Anne Boylen in a performance fondly remembered for the portrayal of the infamous initial ‘B’ pendant hung with three drop-shaped natural pearls suspended from a natural pearl necklace.
When reflecting on the relationship between power, influence, and pearl jewellery, it’s impossible to look past perpetual trend-setter Princess Diana.
In 1997, Princess Diana wore the ‘Swan Lake Suite’ at the gala opening of the Swan Lake ballet at London’s Royal Albert Hall, just months before her untimely death in Paris.
Former British Crown Jeweller Garrard created the piece. The platinum necklace is mounted with brilliant-cut diamonds in a scroll motif. Five cultured South Sea pearls and seven marquise diamonds in a fringe drop design are suspended from the necklace.
Princess Diana’s pearl jewellery was expected to be auctioned in May and to return around $US15 million; however, the sale was cancelled after a mystery buyer purchased the collection.
Princess Diana is far from the only contemporary royal figure to showcase pearls. Queen Elizabeth II and Princess of Wales Kate Middleton have shared a necklace featuring four strands of perfectly matched saltwater Akoya pearls finished with a sparkling diamond-accented centrepiece doubling as a clasp.
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| L to R: Jacqueline Kennedy, Diana of Wales, Grace Kelly, Angelina Jolie |
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Influencers of today
With this historical perspective in mind, it should come as no surprise that influential trendsetters have attempted to replicate the timeless popularity of these figures and their jewellery by endorsing pearl jewellery.
In fashion, Rihanna is the so-called ‘Queen of Reinvention’, and the pop musician has long endorsed pearl jewellery.
During Paris Fashion Week in 2022, Rihanna was draped in a multi-strand choker-style necklace — an archival Christian Dior piece from John Galliano’s Spring 1997 Haute Couture show.
Rihanna was spotted again in New York the following year wearing the same Dior choker, this time joined by a multi-layered Briony Raymond estate necklace studded with pearls, emeralds, diamonds, and rubies.
While these are two recent examples, Rihanna’s love of pearls is hardly new. While performing at the 2012 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, the singer wore Chanel sunglasses framed with pearls and a pearl necklace by Vivienne Westwood Couture.
While these statement pieces showcased the ‘wow factor’ of pearl jewellery, many other celebrities have also taken the time to highlight the gemstone's elegant, understated nature.
Actress Angelia Jolie is well-known for her resistance to ‘maximalist’ trends, favouring simple staples for a subtle look.
On a trip to Washington DC in 2021, Jolie wore a strand of luxurious pearls with matching earrings that appeared to be a nod to the many influential women in politics who have favoured pearl jewellery – whether it be Kamala Harris, Jill Biden, or even Jackie Kennedy.
“Elegant, timeless and surprisingly versatile, pearl earrings are always a good investment. Whether you’re looking for traditional jewellery that’ll stand the test of time, something more modern, or a dramatic look for party season, this semi-precious stone is the perfect choice,” writes Rosie Davenport for Harper’s Bazaar.
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| Alia Bhatt |
“When accessorising ball gowns and off-duty wardrobes, Sarah Jessica Parker, Zendaya, and Angelina Jolie have all made a case for the timeless pearl stud – proof that this simple design is the quiet luxury item of the jewellery world.”
In recent years, pearls have become increasingly popular with male celebrities. If you were to pin this resurgence on any single figure, it would be singer and songwriter Harry Styles of One Direction fame.
Since 2019, Styles has often worn them at red-carpet events, while performing on stage, and in his music videos. These pearls are often oversized and luxurious; however, photographers have also snapped him in public with a more casual look.
Timothée Chalamet is another high-profile pearl devotee and was recently photographed at the launch of the film ‘Bones And All’ wearing a pearl and bone choker.
It’s become a particularly popular look in the music scene, no doubt in part driven by Rihanna’s relentless advocacy.
Rapper Kendrick Lamar attended a Chanel fashion show with a long pearl tassel necklace to complete his outfit. A$AP Rocky was an early adopter of pearl jewellery, undoubtedly encouraged by his relationship with Rihanna.
The rapper first wore pearls in 2019, and since then, they’ve been part of his regular rotation, whether for formal events or casual streetwear.
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| L to R: Ikecho, Rihanna, Autore |
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Changing course
Whether you believe that celebrities set the course that consumers will follow in the form of trends or are sceptical of the influence ‘A-Listers’ wield, one thing is for sure: pearl jewellery has proven itself to be iconic time and time again.
Fortunately for retailers and consumers, jewellery designs have become far more accessible in recent years. Consumers no longer need to break the bank to purchase show-stopping pieces, and retailers no longer need to fear that pearl jewellery will sit on shelves unloved.
Designers have become increasingly experimental with pearls to ensure that while the appeal of the elegance and class of the gemstone is preserved, it’s also jewellery that can be worn every day and doesn’t end up locked in a jewellery box, gathering dust.
Louisa Chan, head of sales at Phillips Jewels in Hong Kong, says that the ability of pearls to blend into classic and contemporary designs means pearls are no longer reserved for formal events.
“Current pearl jewellery designs exude the same elegance, but designers are more experimental and no longer conform to the tradition that pearls should always be strung,” she tells the South Morning China Post.
“Ethereal pearls are juxtaposed with heavy metal chains; they are used to highlight a thick ear cuff, and thin strands of pearl bracelets are stacked with gold bangles. Since more men are sporting jewels on the red carpet, pearl jewels such as chokers and long necklaces are also coming back, but for men.”
New Zealand jewellery brand Meadowlark was launched in 2006 by Claire Hammon and he partner Greg Fromont.
Hammon told The Australian Financial Review that she never set out to work with pearls; however, based on their popularity with customers, she had no choice but to continue.
“We started working with pearls a long time ago. I thought we would do them once and never again, but everyone loves them,” she said.
“They almost design themselves. And each pearl is completely unique, so the jewellery is also unique.”
Hammon’s work aims to achieve a harmony between casual and elegant. She says the days of younger consumers viewing pearl jewellery as ‘old-fashioned’ are over.
“Just because something is classic doesn’t mean it’s old. For me, they finish an outfit so well. Pearls with jeans and a T-shirt – that, to me, is beautiful and really, really cool.”
Jackie Kennedy once famously said that “pearls are always appropriate.” Today, that statement has never beenmore accurate.
Pearl jewellery has never been more accessible. This opens the door for retailers to offer consumers the opportunity to recreate the iconic looks of yesterday’s influential figures, and to emulate the appearance of today’s trendsetting men and women.
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