It’s easy to understand why consumer brands use celebrity endorsement as a marketing strategy.
While it’s nothing new, jewellery and watch brands are increasingly pursuing collaborations with famous people.
Celebrities and trendsetters – whether they be actors, musicians, athletes or otherwise – often had a far-reaching fan base and established media presence.
By associating a particular jewellery or watch brand with that celebrity, the hope is that increased exposure and visibility among those fans or followers will translate to sales.
An association with a respected or admired trendsetter can elevate a brand’s value and desirability among consumers. It’s an implicit endorsement and a promise to the consumer.
They are told that because a person they admire trusts this brand’s quality, style, and craftsmanship, so should the consumer. Arguably, the most critical factor in these partnerships is the penetration of new markets.
Celebrities with global appeal and fans from diverse corners can introduce previously unknown brands to a worldwide audience of potential consumers.
With that said, does celebrity endorsement always work and is it wise?
Jeweller set out to answer this question by asking jewellery retailers and designers if they feel that these endorsements impact the purchasing habits of their customers.
Unsurprisingly, the results were as fascinating as they were mixed.
Many jewellers passionately argued in favour of this marketing strategy, suggesting they tapped into consumers' innate desire to follow in the footsteps of those they admire.
Others were less accepting of convention and felt that serious questions had to be asked about the effectiveness of this approach.
Many contributors felt that modern consumers have such a refined sense of self and personal taste that they are simply less susceptible to this method of advertising.
While they may ‘borrow’ looks here and there from certain trendsetters, at the end of the day, they still want to look unique.
Personalisation is, of course, a common talking point in the jewellery industry today. Another issue raised was the gulf between ‘red carpet’ jewellery and those sold in Australian stores.
Namely, while consumers may admire these figures and wish to emulate their appearance, the jewellery celebrities wear is often worth thousands, if not millions, of dollars.
Said another way, consumers may desire this jewellery; however, they can’t afford it.
This raises an intriguing question: Do the same arguments arise concerning celebrity endorsements of watch brands?
Pillar of the industry
The watch industry has been blessed with many iconic partnerships between famous figures and brands throughout history.
The relationship between Paul Newman and Rolex requires little explanation. The Rolex Daytona ‘Paul Newman’ is one of the most iconic and sought watches, named after the legendary actor and racer.
Newman, an actor and racing car enthusiast, was gifted a Rolex Daytona reference 6239 by his wife, Joanne Woodward, in the late 1960s. This model had a distinctive dial design.
The Rolex Daytona gained immense popularity among collectors due to Newman wearing it regularly on and off the silver screen. His association with the watch contributed significantly to its iconic status.
Steve McQueen has also been instrumental in promoting the watch industry.
TAG Heuer's Monaco watch gained fame after Steve McQueen wore it in the 1971 film Le Mans, leading to a lasting association.
The distinctive square-shaped case and blue dial of the Monaco became instantly recognisable, in large part due to its appearance on McQueen's wrist.
Even after McQueen's passing in 1980, the popularity of the TAG Heuer Monaco has continued. TAG Heuer frequently celebrates this association through special editions and campaigns that pay tribute to McQueen and the Monaco.
Few watch brands can say they’re the official timepiece of the world’s most famous spy. Omega has been able to make this bold claim since 1995, when Pierce Brosnan, playing James Bond in Goldeneye, wore the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M.
Following the film's success, Omega and the James Bond franchise established a partnership. The brand became the official watch of James Bond films.
It’s difficult to question the success of these campaigns; however, have contemporary variations of these projects been a triumph?
Reaching consumers through the media, global audiences have been bombarded with celebrity endorsements in recent years. Have they been effective?
Industry analyst Jamie Weiss of Time and Time says that the specifics of the product and target audience are crucial.
“It depends on the brand and it depends on the influencer. There’s no doubt in my mind that some watch brands have benefitted massively from savvy relationships - Tudor and David Beckham or IWC with Lewis Hamilton spring to mind,” Weiss explains.
“Celebrities have influenced the watch world for a long time. The reason the now-iconic ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona is so expensive at auction is because of its connection to someone famous, not the craft or level of watchmaking involved in its production.”
That said, Weiss says that it’s not a simple process for watch brands. In other words, celebrities aren’t a shortcut to credibility with consumers.
Some customers view celebrity endorsements as inauthentic because it’s clear the trendsetter is being paid to support the brand. This financial motivation to support the products calls into question how much the person genuinely likes them.
Others have concerns about over-commercialisation.
When celebrities endorse too many brands and products, it can dilute the impact of their voice.
If the ambassador’s image or behaviour conflicts with the brand's supposed identity or the consumer's values, it can create a negative perception.
Finally, some consumers value independent decision-making and don’t want to feel like they’re being herded to products like sheep, with the trendsetter playing the role of a well-fed farm dog.
“Some enthusiasts are extremely turned off by overt celebrity or influencer endorsements,” Weiss explains.
“It’s a classic marketing conundrum: influencers might help attract a new audience to watches; however, they also alienate established enthusiasts.”
Change in the air
Over the past decade, endorsements between celebrities and watch brands appear to have increased.
Notable examples include the collaboration between Omega and actor George Clooney, who has worn the brand publicly for many years.
Tennis legend Roger Federer collaborated with Rolex to create special editions, while rival Rafael Nadal has endorsed Richard Mille.
While the association between watch brands and tennis is long-standing, these companies have also branched out and forged connections in new markets.
Hublot, a luxury Swiss watchmaker, has a notable partnership with Usain Bolt, the legendary Jamaican sprinter. NBA icon LeBron James partnered with Audemars Piguet in 2011.
In terms of actors, Bradley Cooper is associated with IWC Schaffhausen and is often seen wearing the brand at significant events. TAG Heuer partnered with Cara Delevingne and Bulgari with Bella Hadid.
Frank Geelen of Monochrome Watches says that the success of each project in raising the profile of these brands should be judged on a case-by-case basis.
“While watch collaborations ‘can’ from time to time create more visibility for brands, reaching an audience surrounding the personality collaborating with them,” he tells Jeweller.
“With that said, these brands remain interesting to an audience that is [already] interested in watches to start with. I don’t think collaborations with influencers and celebrities are able to properly attract people that have no experience with or interest in watches to start with.”
Geelen predicts that watch brands will move away from this strategy moving forward.
“In 2023, we've seen a lot of different collaborations, both with celebrities as well as with influencers or media, and I think that collaborations with influencers and media will slow down.”
Nick Hall of Man of Many was interested in this topic.
He suggests that these collaborations say more about modern consumers than they do about the direction of watch brands.
“In my opinion, collaborations with influencers probably say less about watch brands and more about the evolution of celebrity in the age of social media,” he explains.
“We're certainly seeing more watch brands collaborate with influencers on bespoke pieces in recent years, similar to how sneaker brands leverage celebrity appeal; however, it's yet to fully take hold.
“Most collaborative releases have been well-thought and implemented by people who really know and appreciate the art of watchmaking.”
Dreams of the yesterday’s glory
The legacy status of Rolex and TAG Heuer, aided by Newman and McQueen, is undoubtedly the envy of the watch world.
It’s almost like the ‘passive income’ of the marketing discipline. Interest and consumer excitement continue to flood in for products based on an initial investment decades ago – with little acceleration required outside of the occasional special release or promotional campaign.
That said, achieving that ‘legendary’ status of these brands and products is appearing increasingly unattainable in a retail market driven by consumers with decreasing attention spans.
It’s long been argued that the modern world is increasingly ‘fleeting’.
The rapid evolution of trends, the lightning-fast ‘coming and going’ or what’s hot and what’s not, makes it difficult for watch brands to ascertain the ‘legacy’ status that the likes of Rolex and TAG Heuer have long enjoyed.
“I'm not sure which influencers are being used to push these collaborations, as I generally avoid social media like that. What I can say is this sort of promotion is as fleeting as the fame of the respective influencers,” argues Shane Griffin of Worn and Wound.
“Modern watches can't achieve the status of a Newman Daytona or a Steve McQueen Monaco. This is because the nature of ‘celebrity’ today is vastly different from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s and because modern mechanical watches are purely luxury items now.
“It's just not the same.”
Griffin suggests that Newman and McQueen wore those specific products because they were practical while performing the types of stunts and scenes for which those actors are well-known.
In other words, the types of watches available to Newman and McQueen for these scenes were limited at the time. Today, practical ‘all-terrain’ watches are widely available and thus lack a unique appeal.
“They needed the best tools available. If G-Shocks or Suuntos were around back then, I'd imagine they'd have worn them instead,” he jokes.
“All of that is to say, no, I don't think the popularity of a watch is greatly impacted by influencers.”
Making the right decision
Ariel Adams of ABlogToWatch introduced an interesting alternative perspective to this discussion. He suggested that these marketing exercises keep watch brands grounded and connected with the market.
Well-established watch brands are notoriously resistant to change, and he argues that working on these types of projects helps these brands create products consumers desire.
"Collaborations are popular because, when done well, they result in a watch at least one actual person wants,” he says.
“When one person really wants it, usually others do as well. This is in contrast to watches designed by committee - that no single real person actually wants. Collaborations are really just what a watch design should be.”
For retailers considering a new watch brand for their store, evaluating an endorsement's ‘authenticity’ is complicated but crucial.
As mentioned, customers are sensitive to celebrity endorsements and can view them as insincere or driven by financial gain rather than genuine enthusiasm for the product. This perception can erode the celebrity and brand's trust and credibility.
Endorsements may also overshadow the quality and features of the product. Customers might focus more on the celebrity's image than the product's benefits, leading to scepticism about its value.
Finally, retailers should be cautious of any brand that is endorsed by a 'controversial' public figure. If a trendsetter becomes engulfed by negative publicity, it can reflect poorly on the brands they’ve supported.
For an example, look no further than the relationship between Kanye West and Adidas.
The musician worked closely with the brand for nearly a decade; however, after several bitter public disagreements, the relationship turned sour.
In a matter of weeks, West went from an ardent supporter of Adidas to a vocal opponent – and he had a global audience of millions hearing his every complaint.
This can lead to a loss of trust and credibility among consumers who associate the brand with the celebrity.
“It might sound trite, but for it to work properly, the influencer or celebrity needs to genuinely care about the product,” suggests Weiss.
“For instance, Ryan Gosling has been an effective ambassador for TAG Heuer as he’s a genuine watch lover who’s angled to get TAG Heuers on screen with him in novel ways.
“This includes him triple-flexing vintage TAG Heuers as Ken in Barbie.”
Indeed, marketing projects between celebrities and watch brands begin with lofty ambitions. It’s a plan to capitalise on the expansive reach and cultural impact of these figures to elevate the desirability of a brand among consumers.
The effectiveness of these projects remains up for debate. While some will happily argue that brand recognition increases following celebrity endorsement, others suggest that perceived insincerity and over-commercialisation have the opposite impact.
Modern consumers say they value independent decision-making and personalisation; however, contradictions between stated beliefs and purchasing decisions are as common as the sun's rising and setting.
The evolving landscape of influencer marketing in the watch industry requires a nuanced approach, and retailers must follow suit.
Authenticity and brand alignment are crucial to gaining and maintaining consumer trust.
The success of future collaborations rests on their ability to resonate with global audiences while navigating the complexity surrounding celebrity culture in the modern age.
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