Diamonds, colour gemstones, luxury watches and jewellery of all thinkable varieties light up every corner of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and AsiaWorld-Expo venues.
As a result, it’s not surprising that this year’s show in September attracted more than 50,000 visitors from 142 countries – each eager to view showcases presented by more than 3,300 exhibitors.
With that said, there was one clear star at this year’s event – pearls and pearl jewellery. It’s easy to understand why pearls have enraptured humans for thousands of years.
Pearls' unique and lustrous appearance is captivating, and subtle colours add elegance and sophistication to any outfit. They are classic and never go out of style.
Pearls have been valued for centuries, making them a staple in vintage and contemporary fashion. Event organiser Informa Markets thrust pearls into the spotlight in Hong Kong with the launch of the Orient Odyssey on 18 September.
It was a fascinating tour through the intricate world of pearls, taking visitors from ‘shell to market’.
Director of jewellery fairs at Informa Markets, Celine Lau, says the exhibition was designed to introduce a new generation of jewellers to the beauty of pearls.
“Few things evoke fascination like the world’s only living gemstones, inherently perfect from the moment of harvest," she explains.
"Orient Odyssey is celebrating the timeless beauty of pearls while at the same time introducing them to a new generation of buyers and ensuring that their enduring allure remains at the forefront of the industry’s collective consciousness."
The exhibition showcased oysters' production of pearls, offered insights into the world’s various pearl grading systems, and highlighted the evolving science of pearl cultivation.
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| Australian company Autore's award-winning Ophidia Enchantress Necklace is crafted from A-grade South Sea Keshi pearls set in 18 carat rose gold and 16.64-carats of pink diamonds and 23.99-carats of white diamonds, with a 2-carat pear shaped white diamond set in the head of the serpent. |
Live demonstrations of pearls extracted from oysters captivated onlookers. Designer Rosemary Chung hosted sessions on pearl jewellery styling, while renowned gemstone artist Victor Tuzlukov provided live demonstrations of pearl facetting techniques.
One of the major supporters of the exhibition was Australia’s Paspaley Pearling Company. Executive director Michael Bracher says that Australia has an important story to tell on the global stage.
“It’s been a fantastic experience, and I think it’s really opened many people’s minds as to what is capable with the Australian oyster,” Bracher explains.
“We’ve presented many pearls from our private collection that aren’t for sale, including the Paspaley Pearl, which we found in 2003. My uncle said at the time that we shouldn’t sell it until we find a better one, and funnily enough, here we are in 2024 and still holding it.”
Many consider the Paspaley Pearl to be the finest South Sea pearl ever discovered. It was harvested more than two decades ago on the Kimberley Coast. Perfectly round and measuring more than 20 millimetres in diameter, it has an intense lustre and strong pink overtone.
“It’s been great to showcase our unique collection of the most interesting and important pearls that we’ve found over many decades,” Bracher explained.
"We even spoke with a few clients and got their permission to temporarily showcase them at this booth so that we could highlight the excellence of Australian pearls.”
Located in the fine jewellery pavilion, Autore Pearls also supported the exhibition. General manager of jewellery sales and operations Justin Schwarz offered an up-close look at some of the company’s finest creations.
These include the award-winning Enchantress.
Creative director Jane Autore and her design team created the necklace in 18-carat rose gold, which features more than 16 carats of pink diamonds and 23 carats of white diamonds, mimicking the pattern of scales.
In the snake's head, a two-carat pear-shaped white diamond sits like a crown, and the eyes and nostrils are adorned with rubies, black diamonds, and moonstones.
The piece contains 26 Autore South Sea Keshi pearls collected over eight years.
“Autore is renowned for offering the finest quality pearls, and we have seen that reflected in the interactions and feedback we’ve had with buyers. We’ve been very busy,” Schwartz tells Jeweller.
“One of the most valuable aspects of shows such as this is educating visitors on the value of Australian pearls. It’s a great chance to build rapport and highlight how special these natural wonders are. “
He added: “This isn’t just limited to buyers from overseas, too; we find that Aussies still have plenty to learn.”
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| The 2024 show included an interactive exhibit called 'Orient Odyssey' that showcased pearls and included live demonstrations. |
Thick of the action
Jewellery and Gem World Hong Kong is divided across two venues for those unfamiliar. The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre is dedicated to finished jewellery, while AsiaWorld-Expo features loose gemstones.
The pearl section of AsiaWorld-Expo is usually a hive of activity, with buyers feverously purchasing strands. There was a notable decline in foot traffic this year, which has been attributed to a range of factors.
Among the crowd was Adam Crase of South Sea Pearls and Jewellery, based in Sydney.
“There’s definitely been a significant reduction in foot traffic this year, but I’m happy with some of the new contacts we’ve made,” he says.
“We’ve done really well with some of our silver lines in particular. We’ve spoken with some interesting buyers – generally speaking, Europeans aren’t particularly passionate about pearls, particularly in comparison with buyers from Asia.”
Crase raised an interesting subject that attendees of recent jewellery fairs in Hong Kong have previously discussed — the impact of China’s expanding middle class.
Diamond Federation of Hong Kong chairman Victor Yiu previously noted that diamond jewellery sales in China have slowed because an expanding middle class encourages consumers to delay marriage in favour of career advancement.
Crase offered an interesting perspective on this topic.
“If you think that about it in simple terms, if there’s an additional million families entering the middle class in China, that’s an additional one million strands of pearls to be sold,” he explains.
“Advertising certainly helps promote pearl jewellery in that regard, and the message is often that you don’t need to have the very best pearls, but you need to have some.
“As the emerging middle class comes into China, they’re accepting a lower-grade pearl because pearls are associated with wealth.”
Located a short walk away was Jonathan Jacobson, co-founder of Pearl Traders. An industry veteran, he specialises in South Sea, Tahitian, and gold pearls.
“We’ve spoken with quite a few people, and the feedback has been mixed; some people are quiet, and some people are busy. It’s like any trade show,” he tells Jeweller.
“We are really happy with how we’ve gone; we have no complaints. I think people are finding that buyers are interested in anything and everything.
“Whatever is available, they’re going to buy. We’ve got a wide range of pearls – from colour to black and gold and commercial pearls, and it’s all been selling which is fantastic.”
Eye on the future
As part of a new initiative, Informa Markets launched the Sustainability Awards 2024, with an expert panel from the jewellery and gemstone industry judging the efforts of businesses of all sizes. Autore Pearls was named a finalist in the Environmental Stewardship category.
Furthermore, on 18 September, a panel discussion titled The Power of Pearls: Sustainable Gems For A New Generation was held at the HKCEC's Grand Foyer.
The discussion centred around innovative strategies, from design to branding, that increase pearls' appeal to consumers.
Rosario Autore, founder of The Autore Group, participated in the discussion and went ‘off-script’ to conclude his presentation, emphasising the importance of bringing the next generation into the industry.
“Our key responsibility as leaders of this industry is to inspire the younger generation who will follow our path. It’s a commitment to building an industry for these future leaders so that they can, in turn, inspire and engage with their peers,” he said.
“We need to provide them with the passion and dedication that everyone in this room has, and I hope we can all get together and make sure that we progress further down this path.”
In 2025, Jewellery and Gem World Hong Kong will be held from 15-19 September at the AWE and from 17-21 September at the HKCEC.
Jewellery and Gem World Hong Kong Highlights
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