The watch and jewellery industries are steeped in tradition and legacy, with many brands proudly wearing their history as a badge of honour. Very few brands have a story that rivals WOLF.
The brand celebrates 190 years of operation this year – and has done so in style, with the release of five new collections marking important moments and milestones.
Watch winders and jewellery boxes are intriguing propositions for Australian retailers. On one hand, they’re niche products that cater to a specific audience.
Put simply, most people are likely to purchase an engagement ring at some point in their lives; however, only a select few will be so committed and dedicated to collecting watches that they’ll require a winder.
The same could be said for fine jewellery boxes as many consumers undoubtedly feel that ‘any old box will do’ – jewellery is meant to be worn, not stored!
That said, this niche appeal can offer retailers access to loyal and dedicated consumers passionate about watches and jewellery.
These products can also position a jewellery business as an ‘all-encompassing’ authority on luxury goods — with the answer to another common question (storage) easily on hand.
Furthermore, retailers can pair these items with watches and jewellery, encouraging customers to purchase complementary products, thus increasing revenue with add-on sales.
Jewellery boxes and watch winders offer retailers a unique point of difference in a crowded market – and ‘standing out’ is something WOLF prides itself on.
Past: Winding back the clock
THE WOLF TIMELINE |
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1836-1896
Philipp Wolf I
The Silversmith |
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1869-1946
Philipp Wolf II
The Boxmaker |
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1889-1991
Ida Wilhelmina Peterson
The Traveller |
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1911-1993
Philipp Wolf III
The Fisherman |
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1936
Philipp Wolf IV
The Aviator |
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TODAY
Simon Philip Wolf V
The Designer |
The brand began in 1834 with Philipp Wolf I, a jeweller and silversmith by trade in Hanau, Germany. Dreaming of presenting his jewellery in the best way possible, he began handmaking boxes.
He realised that he’d found a niche in the market, and as the popularity of these boxes grew, he shifted away from silversmithing to focus on this new passion.
In a move highlighting the enduring respect for tradition and family the brand would later embody, Philipp Wolf I would later base the design of his family crest on the Hanau coat of arms.
The second generation of the family was led by Philipp Wolf II, who immigrated to Sweden in 1895 and, 15 years later, married Ida Wilhelmina Peterson. Unfortunately, not every fairy tale story has a happy ending, and after the tragic loss of two of their five children due to illness, he suffered severe mental health issues. With her husband unable to work, Ida took it upon herself to lead the company.
She would travel throughout Sweden and Scandinavia by rail and horse-drawn carriage, selling whatever products the factory could make from a wooden trunk.
Ida kept the WOLF story alive, and in 1936, two of her remaining children - Philipp Wolf III and his brother Ernst – took control of the business. Philipp Wolf III is described as a visionary. At the factory in Malmö, Sweden, he developed many new production techniques and processes. He is renowned for inventing the musical pirouetting ballerina box, which would become a world-famous jewellery box.
In the 1950s, Philipp Wolf IV joined the family business at a young age, helping his father create samples and spending time at the factory.
During this time, he briefly moved to England and encountered the woman who would become his wife – less than a week after they first met!
In the 1960s, he moved to the UK, instructed by his father to build a factory and start production in Ireland. Production was soon relocated to South Wales.
In the 1980s, a fifth generation was added to the family business – Simon Philipp Wolf V.
He recently visited Australia as part of the anniversary celebration, meeting with retailers in Melbourne and Sydney.
Speaking on the third floor of a hotel lounge in Melbourne on a warm spring afternoon, Wolf fondly remembers these early days – and laughingly dismisses any suggestion that joining the family business was ‘destiny’.
“Growing up, I watched my father go to the office in London. I knew the work he did, and I found the boxes and samples fascinating; however, I never had any intention of joining the business,” he tells Jeweller.
“I was very lucky as a child. I had a great education, went to boarding school, and lived in Sweden for a year before returning to London to study at university. That didn’t work out well for me.
“One day, my father came to me and said, why don’t you try going out on the road with Tony?”
‘Tony’ was a travelling salesperson for the business – and Wolf describes that suggestion as a ‘lightbulb moment’ in his life.
Discovering first-hand how business is conducted was an eye-opening experience, and he loved every moment.
It’s a relatable origin story; indeed, there’s often something special in seeing exactly how the ‘sausage is made’.
Witnessing the types of retailers Tony would visit, how he interacted with them, and how orders were made, finalised, and completed was inspiring.
“When we returned to the office in London, my father dropped the phone directory in front of me and said go and sell something,” Wolf remembers.
“Two years later, my father asked me what I thought of our distribution. I said I thought I could do a better job. I didn’t have a clue what I was talking about; I was only 22 years old.”
He continues: “I have these distinct memories from those days. How inspiring it is to learn how business works and the stress and duress and fear of not knowing what you’re doing. Those are the emotions and feelings that you remember clearly decades later.”
Present: Recognition and refinement
Those fears were justified in many regards, and it wasn’t always smooth sailing for the brand. In the early 2000s, he would pursue an ambitious rebranding from Wolf Designs to WOLF, aiming to highlight the heritage and family tradition behind the business.
“Around 15 years ago, things began to change dramatically for us. We began to be recognised as the ‘go-to’ for watch winders and jewellery cases, and I suppose it would say that was the beginning of a series of successive ‘ah-ha’ moments,” Wolf explains.
“It was about recognising the value of the people who worked with me and realising that we could achieve so much more than we were. I have great people who work with me today, and when we’re set in a direction, the sky is the limit.”
A distribution partnership between WOLF and Duraflex Group Australia was announced in September 2020. At the time, managing director Phil Edwards said the brand’s niche and unique appeal would be well-regarded in the Australian market.
"WOLF is a truly unique brand with an unrivalled product offering that’s necessary for our market. We’re delighted to be the exclusive agent and look forward to growing this luxury brand locally,” he told Jeweller at the time.
"The five-generation family-owned brand understands that extraordinary objects are representations of extraordinary moments in life.”
Nearly half a decade later, Edwards says the partnership will only continue to grow.
“We are honoured to be associated with the WOLF brand and truly value the partnership that we share,” he tells Jeweller today.
“To be celebrating 190 years is a monumental milestone for the brand, and their commitment to innovation and sustainability is inspirational. The response from retailers and press meeting with Simon Wolf personally during his first visit to Australia has been exceptional.”
He continues: “We look forward to now taking the WOLF brand to the next level.”
As mentioned, WOLF has celebrated its 190th anniversary by releasing five new collections. The first is the Silver Watch Jewellery and Legacy Box, a commemorative piece for Philipp Wolf I, who started the company as a silversmith in 1834.
The silver box is decorated with a piano hinge and an engine-turned finish and features two lift-out trays.
The Ida Trunk Jewellery Box is a tribute to the woman who kept the business alive amid great grief and loss. It's a trunk-style jewellery box with a recycled canvas exterior, top-grain leather trim, brass stud detailing, and a custom lock.
Next is the Ballet Musical Jewellery Box, an iconic WOLF design created by Philipp Wolf III in the 1930s. It has eight compartments lined with blue ultrasuede.
There are two ballerinas to choose from within the walnut wood veneer and marquetry-inlaid music box. Simon's wife, Fiona, designed the embroidery within the inner lid framing the mirror.
The Philipp Watch and Jewellery Lifestyle Box is inspired by the creation of Simon’s father, Philipp Wolf IV. The men’s watch and jewellery lifestyle case embodies vintage 1970s aesthetics with a modern twist.
A rich brown vegan leather and beige nubuck exterior, with the Design Philipp ‘DP’ logo in a gold finish, is paired with a custom-designed lock.
The final anniversary collection is Earth, designed by Simon to commemorate the brand's history. The collection blends sustainable materials, such as apple leather, with the latest WOLF technology, such as a lock-in dynamic cuff and app-set turns per day.
Future: Cultural influence
When celebrating an anniversary, it’s natural to turn one's attention not only to the past but to the future—and a 200th-anniversary celebration in 2034 beckons.
Between now and then, WOLF has some significant ambitions – and has already outlined the steps required to achieve them.
“By the time we reach our 200th anniversary, I hope the brand is recognised more universally,” he says.
“The objective is to have our messaging strong enough that people no longer say they need a watch winder or a jewellery box; they need a WOLF.”
Indeed, a brand name becoming synonymous with a product is often viewed as climbing the ‘Mount Everest’ of marketing.
The most common example most may recall is Kleenex being said instead of tissue in the US; however, Band-Aid, Tupperware, Frisbee, Velcro and even PowerPoint are all examples.
It’s a sign that a brand has achieved market dominance and its product quality and reputation have reached cultural influence.
Many brands and marketing teams dream of this accomplishment, and Wolf said he’s confident his company has what it takes.
“It’s about taking one step every single day. It’s about being consistent with our products and development, how we deliver our messaging and the story behind the product, and supporting our customers and retailers,” he says.
“It’s not something that happens overnight. It happens organically, every day, every week, and every month, as we continuously react and adjust the valuable information we receive from our retail partners and customers.”
He continues: “That’s how this company has managed to survive for nearly two centuries, and it’s how we’ll move forward in the future.”
From humble beginnings at the hands of a silversmith in Germany in the 1830s, WOLF has evolved into a global industry supplier with a strong presence in Europe, the US, Asia, and Australia.
Making a brand name synonymous with luxury watch and jewellery storage is a lofty and ambitious dream.
However, with more than 190 years of history supporting the brand, the odds are undoubtedly in WOLF’s favour.
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