Well, a good starting point is to know which diamond cut, or shape, will best suit. With different ring settings matching different diamond shapes, the choice is endless. Different diamonds “sparkle” in different way, but did you know different cuts create different impressions?
Some diamonds look bigger depending on the cut - the way a diamond looks is affected by the way the diamond cut is presented. Do you want a traditional round cut, or are you looking for a fancy cut diamond?
So here’s an “at a glance” guide to diamond shapes:
Round
The Classic diamond cut of all the diamond shapes. Round diamond shapes are the most popular engagement ring diamond shapes sold. The depth percentage should range between 58 to 63 percent and the table percentage should range between 55 to 64 percent. Perfectionists, however, will look for depth of 59 through 62 percent and table of 56 through 58 percent. Most people choose this type of diamond cut.
Princess
The Princess diamond cut is one of few brilliant style diamond shapes with sharp, uncut corners. These diamonds are typically cut as square rather than as rectangle. Brilliant style refers to vertical direction crown and pavilion facets instead of step style horizontal facets. Princess Cut diamonds generally have 76 facets, giving them more brilliance and fire than the brilliance given off by round diamond shapes. The Princess diamond cut is quickly becoming the most popular diamond shape chosen for diamond engagement rings.
Radiant
The Radiant Diamond cut appears as a straight-edged rectangular or square stone with cut corners. Radiant diamond shapes have 62-70 facets. Radiant diamond shapes are principally used as center stones primarily for rings and also for pendants. This diamond cut is rarely used for earrings or as side stones, because it is hard to calibrate and match with other diamond shapes. To get matching pairs you may have to sort through a hundred or more diamond shapes.
Emerald
Emerald cut diamond shapes are usually rectangular. The flat planes of the outside edges match this a variety of side stone diamond shapes. Typical pairings would be two or three side baguette diamond shapes, two half-moon diamond shapes and other smaller emeralds. Trillion diamond shapes, however, do not pair well here, as their sparkle makes the center emerald cut look flat. The optimal length-to-width ratio of this diamond cut should be between 1.5:1 to 1.75:1.
Oval
The Oval Diamond Cut is based upon the traditional configuration of Round Brilliant Diamond shapes. Its technical name was derived from Oval Modified Brilliant Diamond. With an optimal length-to-width ratio of 1.5:1, this oval diamond shape is universally acceptable as pleasing to the eye. However as with all fancies, a certain degree of individual taste is always factored into the desirability of diamond shapes, and fifty-six facets are typical for these diamond shapes. Over the last year, oval diamond shapes have become very popular as center diamonds for diamond engagement rings.
Pear Shaped
Pear diamond shapes are based upon the traditional configuration of the round brilliant diamond cut and have a rounded end and a single pointed end. A long pear shape diamond also creates a slimming effect on the fingers. If the color grade is not high enough, color may be slightly visible in the pear shaped diamond. The preferred ratio for pear shaped diamonds is a length-to-width ratio between 1.50 and 1.75.
More than other fancy shapes, length-to-width ratio is a matter of taste when it comes to pear diamond shapes. Since the pear diamond cut can be used for engagement rings, suites in necklaces, dangles in earrings, and integral parts of costume designs, a wide variety of these diamond shapes are considered desirable. The typical diamond pear cut will contain 58 facets.
Asscher Cut
Asscher Cut Diamonds resemble emerald-cut diamonds only they are square. An Asscher cut diamond reveals the clarity of the diamond like an emerald cut, showing flaws and the color of the stone. Unless the diamond's color is very good, you may detect the light yellowish color in your diamond. The ideal cut for an Asscher Cut Diamond is a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05.
Marquise Cut
Marquise Cut Diamonds maximize carat weight and give the appearance of a much larger diamond than other diamond shapes. marquise diamond looks beautiful set with round or pear-shaped side stones. Also, the marquise diamond makes fingers look long and slender. marquise Cut Diamonds may show a slight color in lower color grades. The preferred length-to-width ratio on the marquise diamond between 1.75 and 2.25 for stones pleasing to the eye.
Heart Cut
Heart cut diamonds are nearly round, each has the advantage of having a nearly round pavilion that provides its beautiful brilliance. When choosing a color grade, color may be slightly visible in its corners. Look for length-to-width ratios between .90 and 1.10 for heart-shaped diamonds that are pleasing to the eye.
Cushion Cut
Cushion Cut Diamonds were popular a century ago, cushion-cut diamonds (also known as "pillow-cut" diamonds) have rounded corners and larger facets to increase their brilliance under candlelight. Cushion Cut Diamonds vary in their degree of rectangularity. For cushion-cut diamonds pleasing to the eye, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.1 and 1.2.