Lucky charm
4.3 k views | By Carla Caruso • Journalist
Dangle charms, leather bracelets and holiday-inspired trinkets are just some of the trends of this jewellery obsession. CARLA CARUSO finds the most charming examples.
In ancient times, charms were used to protect a person from evil wishers and were thought to boast special, protective powers; these days, they can act as mementos of life’s milestones or make a statement about a wearer’s personality.
In the last five years, the surge of personalised charm and bead brands on the market from companies such as Thomas Sabo, Pandora, Lovelinks, Bacio and Chamilia has helped reinvigorate a sector of jewellery long thought lost to the Victorian era.
“From Ancient Egyptian scarabs and Chinese tortoises to today’s high-heeled shoe in silver or diamond-pavé star dangling from a bracelet, the astonishing range of shapes and materials mean that there is a charm to appeal to everyone,” writes Deborah Alun-Jones and John Ayton in Charming: The Magic of Charm Jewellery.
With no sign of the craze abating, what new trends will charm companies be setting this season? Or, more to the point, what will consumers want next?
An explosion of colour can be expected, according to Ciara Ryan, the marketing manager and senior designer of Sydney wholesaler Pastiche, which distributes charm brands Lovelinks, Petite Lovelinks and Mix ‘n Match. “The newest additions to the Lovelinks and Petite Lovelinks collections feature enamel inlays in several vibrant colours,” Ryan says of Pastiche, which uses gold, sterling silver, gold plating and Murano glass in its ranges. “We are also excited about the addition of new Swarovski crystal pieces in the new designs, which come in amethyst, aqua, black, white, fuchsia, gold, olive, pink and red. Both ranges will also include less conventional pieces, like lariats and leather bracelets.”
Danish brand Ole Lynggaard has also gone for a burst of colour with its leather bracelets, worn with removable and changeable beads. Originally, the bracelets were solely crafted in black, brown and off-white; however, the palette has been extended for the warmer months ahead, according to Vibeke Weinreich Mignard, field sales manager, Ole Lynggaard.
“New vibrant colours of the exclusive, hand sewn, calf-skin leather bracelets are being launched in spring in such colours as turquoise, blue, olive green or red,” Weinreich Mignard says.
The bracelets are being teamed with a rainbow of gemstones too, including green amethyst and chrysoprase, blue topaz and lemon quartz; with beads in white gold, yellow gold and silver.
Ever-popular Danish brand Pandora has also introduced its own range of colourful, leather bracelets, woven with a branded clasp. Included in this is a pink, limited-edition Pink Ribbon bracelet, of which 15 per cent of the sales are being donated to the National Breast Cancer Foundation. The bracelet features a sterling silver bead, which is also a locket.
There is a sense of holiday fever in the air for charms. German sterling silver brand Thomas Sabo’s Charm Club collection, distributed locally by Sydney supplier Duraflex, has a new Tropical Island range. The motifs, comprising coloured enamel and cubic zirconia, include palm trees, fruit and flowers.
Escapulario from Laila.com.au
US-designed charm brand Chamilia, distributed by Sydney supplier Arctic Wolf, has also just released beads reminiscent of summer vacations, such as a “Tropical Getaway” palm tree, angelfish and butterfly charms. There are also other fun, relaxed motifs like a golf bag, wine glasses and a yoga-loving frog. Chamilia uses 14-carat gold, sterling silver, Murano glass and coloured stone beads in its range.
Also for Chamilia, Disney continues to grow, with tributes to Nemo, Dopey and Cheshire Cat.
“People are even getting the charms for their three-year-olds,” says Christine Barry, who runs Arctic Wolf with husband, Robert.
Also with a Disney Hollywood All-Star range, Thomas Sabo is introducing six new characters for spring, including Lady and the Tramp, Bambi, Thumper, Kermit and Tinkerbell.
Attracting the younger set, Austria’s Swarovski has some playful charm motifs, including magic mirror, wand and ghost pendants – of course, encrusted in the brand’s famed crystal beads.
For the fashion-savvy woman, Pastiche has had a lot of fun with its latest collection, Ryan says: “Our favourite motifs are cheeky and glamorous items, like hearts, high heels and cherries.”
As well, milestones continue to be celebrated via the jewellery. Thai charm brand Moress, which has just been introduced to the Australian market by Sydney supplier Seriously Twisted – also the distributor of Italian charm brand Bacio – features motifs such as gift boxes, cupcakes and wedding cakes, using gold, silver and semi-precious stones.
Of the brand, Seriously Twisted co-director Megan Wisheart says, “The quality of the beads is astounding. They make the mould with a gold mould, instead of silver, so they can get more detail. All the beads are set-in, rather than glued-in. The components are also cast separately.”
Also focusing on milestones, Pandora has added special birthday beads to its range, including the numbers 18, 21 and 30.
Sydney handmade jewellery label Cristiana has a Saintly Charming range, inspired by the bright colours of Mexico and featuring saint and angel charms made from French coloured glass and oxidised metals.
On the New Age side of things, Danish jewellery brand La Chance, inspired by the Chinese Zodiac, has a new I Ching range, with the focal point being an I Ching coin. Round with a square hole in the middle, it is said to represent the relationship between the energy of the earth and that of the universe and bring good fortune, health and prosperity to the wearer. Gold plating, Swarovski crystal and semi-precious stones are used in its range of bracelets, pendants and earrings.
Pandora has also introduced cameo-style zodiac sign beads, created in black and white agate. Each is carved, so all are completely individual.
Global charm brand Silverado, which has an Australian influence in its design and manufacturing and is distributed by Sydney supplier B Luscious, also offers such motifs as Buddha, fairies, witches and angels. Its range comprises sterling silver, 14-carat gold, Murano glass and crystal.
Pandora
As well, dangling charms are garnering attention, according to B Luscious managing director Peter Burgess: “Silverado’s new dangle charm range incorporates highly detailed, sterling silver charms, with colourful Murano glass securely attached to accentuate the charm. The new designs can be integrated onto bracelets or necklaces using the same twist-on system, along with the standard silver, gold or Murano glass. This creates a new look for the charm bracelet, with the larger, dangling charms giving movement and rhythm to the charm bracelet.”
Pastiche has also launched a new range called Hooked On Pastiche, with a similar ethos: “The range features fun and funky charms, suspended from lobster clasps that can easily be attached to a range of sterling silver bracelets and pendants, featuring clear cubic inlays,” Ryan says. “The charms are sterling silver with bright enamel inlays, coloured cubic or Swarovski crystal detailing and freshwater pearl attachments.”
Charms are also dangling from earrings and rings, courtesy of Australian-made charm brand Surreal, the creation of Sydney manufacturer Isaac Jewellery. Surreal Bondi is a new collection of charm rings and earrings for the brand, which comprise 9 and 18-carat gold. “The charms can be worn as an isolated look or together,” says Annet Atakliyan, the owner and business development manager of Isaac Jewellery. “It’s a very different look – the ‘Cartier’ of charms.”
Pandora has also introduced new Mix and Match earring pendants, which can be worn on lobes, wrists or necks.
Men aren’t being forgotten in the charm craze either. Ole Lynggaard has launched a men’s version of its Sweet Drops concept, Spot On. They comprise leather bracelets in a variety of colours, which can be “built up” with a combination of flat-surface charms with engraving and stones.
It seems there’s no limit to the charm trend. There truly is something for everyone and, as B Luscious’s Burgess says, that’s part of their appeal: “I have seen five-year-olds having conversations, comparing their bracelet to their grandmother’s and discussing whose looks the best and what new charms they want.”
The trend is only on the rise, according to Chamilia’s Barry: “Our sales are increasing. We’re thinking it’s still on the ascendancy. Nothing lasts forever in fashion, but I can’t see any sign of the charm trend waning yet. If people are buying bracelets, that means they still have to fill them with charms – and they are.”
For many retailers, the craze is proving a lucky charm, business-wise too. Not only do the trinkets provide great gift options, they can also offer affordable pick-me-ups for consumers. Plus, the huge variety means there’s always something new for a customer to look at or fawn over – and return to a store for. What could be more charming?
Posted October 01, 2009