From traditional to fashionable, whimsical to sombre, jewellery can warm hearts, speak words, spark memories and bring tears to the eye. Sure, all jewellery is personalised over time. Hallmarked with memories, the piece of silver or gold is used to symbolise an event, milestone or person in the wearer’s life. But some pieces go one step further. They evoke emotions as soon as the box is opened; sometimes even embodying part of that cherished person within the piece, as part of its design.
For some jewellery designers, capturing emotion is the essence of their work.
Against the worrying backdrop of the global financial crisis, retailers may find consumers spending more prudently – tending only to buy jewellery for special occasions. And this, according to some suppliers, means emotional jewellery will win more hearts.
“With the decline in the market, jewellery is a luxury item and therefore bought mostly for occasions,” says John Michaelis, director of supplier AM imports. “Occasions are emotional, and emotions enhance the meaning of the piece.”
Chris Worth, sales and marketing, Worth and Douglas agrees: “The current financial situation makes customers think a little harder about the purchases they make, and an item that has a personal connection is viewed as a more meaningful, lasting purchase.”
When looking for an emotional, classic piece of jewellery that will last for generations, customers often think of lockets. Usually heart or oval-shaped, they keep photographs of those close to one’s heart, literally close to one’s heart – suspended from a chain that dangles over the wearer’s breastbone, making that person a part of the piece.
“A locket is quite a personal piece, because what is inside the locket is kept hidden from view,” Michaelis says. “Lockets are essentially keepers of memories.”
Appealing to all wearers of all ages, and for several different occasions, AM Imports’ locket collection is mainly in sterling silver, with some 9-carat yellow gold versions also available. Michaelis says the design has a hidden hinge so it is not visible from the front and doesn’t disturb the shape of the locket. A light, transparent, plastic film goes over the image to hold it in place, and the wearer is even able to put strands of hair in it – not dissimilar to a piece of mourning jewellery.
“They appeal to anyone who wants to gift to someone they love and feel a special bond to,” Michaelis says. “Commemorative jewellery is suitable for any occasion, deeply personal but also quite readily accepted as gifts.”
Another supplier doing lots of lockets is Joseph R Lycett, whose point of difference is to craft all lockets from British hallmarked sterling silver. Moreover, these lockets can hold not just one, but four photographs – opening up from the regular heart or oval shape to reveal multi-layered frames.
“A collection of photos that you can wear close to your heart, with you at all times,” describes business operator Fiona Margaret Lycett. “Customers can engrave initials on the front, making them feel unique, as it is the only one like it in the world with that engraving and those photos.”
Lycett will be releasing marcasite versions at the Sydney Jewellery Fair this year.
Another traditional, albeit less obvious way to represent loved ones in jewellery is a Dearest gem-set ring or pendant.
Dearest jewellery spells the word “dearest” in stones that represent each letter of the word: “d” for diamond, “e” for emerald, “a” for amethyst, “r” for ruby, “e” for emerald, “s” for sapphire and “t” for topaz.
Other takes on this include using gems to represent the birthstones or zodiac stones of loved ones.
One company has recently taken such traditional, emotional gemstone jewellery and modernised it for a new generation.
Gem Drops from Worth & Douglas allow wearers to represent their special milestones with coloured gems, designed to hang from a bangle. Available in 9 and 18-carat gold and sterling silver, Gem Drops are set with either semi-precious or synthetic stones.
“The Gem Drops range appeals to many people – from mothers wanting to mark the births of their children, to those commemorating birthdays and anniversaries, or for the individual who wishes to make their own Gem Drop bracelet for any event, occasion or emotion,” Worth says.
Gem Drops can be purchased individually, or complete with a new bangle. Customers can choose their desired Gem Drop, which the jeweller can attach to their existing bangle, or order the bangle and Gem Drop complete from Worth & Douglas.
Another modern, fashionable way to represent a special person or milestone is with a charm. Charms and new-age charm bracelets definitely need no introduction. They have taken the jewellery world by storm in recent years and seem here to stay.
“The current personalised charm ranges will no doubt go down in worldwide history as 21st century jewellery phenomena,” says Peter Burgess, managing director of Silverado charm supplier B Luscious.
The Silverado range is manufactured from sterling silver and 14-carat gold, authentic Murano Glass, precious and semi-precious gemstones, CZ and
crystal.
“The Silverado range was created to reflect real life and fantasy and made in different sizes to create rhythm up and down along the bracelet. Thus was born the ‘Rhythm of Life’ theme,” Burgess says. “The inspiration covers many factors including fantasy, love, life, family, desires and everyday living.”
The range is continually evolving, with over 100 new designs currently in production including more pieces for the popular Bling range and pieces using Murano Glass with detailed silver beads. There is also a dangle charm range due for release and a series of rings.
“It is now common to have more than one charm bracelet – each one individually created for personal reasons. A Silverado charm bead can be given on so many occasions aside from all the obvious ones,” Burgess says. “There are all those other times you just want to say, ‘thank you’, ‘I’m thinking of you’, ‘I love you’ or ‘congratulations’.”
A piece of jewellery can speak a thousand words, but for those who prefer things a little more obvious, there’s jewellery pre-engraved with poetry. Blue Turtles’ Poetic Pieces range of pendants, rings, charms and bracelets feature the famous quotes of prominent luminaries and visionaries inscribed in sterling silver.
“Positive affirmation is widely accepted as a powerful tool for creating positive results,” says creator Doron Berger. “It's only natural that people will find jewellery that reflects such values more and more appealing. With Poetic Pieces jewellery, one can constantly keep ideas and sentiments that strike a chord with them, nearby.”
A range of gemstone charms will soon be added to the collection, with new quotes of course.
Customers who like the idea of engraved jewellery may choose to put their own special message on a ring or bracelet. Gold jewellery supplier Peter W Beck provides a flawless font on jewellery like baby bangles and wedding rings as part of its Express Yourself Engraving Service – covering a range of pieces.
“Our range of engraved baby bangles will appeal to new parents or those family members looking for that unique gift,” says Rachel Heir, marketing manager, PWB. “They can be made in most metals – gold, platinum, silver, and a selected range in palladium.”
The engraving option is also available for rings and adult bangles: “When purchasing a ring or bangle from PWB, the customer needs to, via the retailer, include information and a personalised message they want engraved on the order. They can choose from a number of sizes and fonts. From here the ring or bangle can be made.”