From buried deep within the Earth’s surface and into stores and private collections worldwide, pink diamonds have captured the hearts and minds of jewellery designers and consumers.
Remarkably rare, startlingly valuable, and uniquely Australian, pink diamonds remain unrivalled symbols of luxury.
When it comes to the desire for luxury jewellery, pink diamonds have been a ‘perfect recipe’ for success; however, as is the case with any recipe, it’s important to understand the value of each ingredient.
In November 2020, the Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia was closed after 40 years of operation. Among the 20 million carats of diamond rough extracted each year from the mine, a fraction of a single per cent were pink.
Despite the rarity of these stones, the Argyle mine still accounted for more than 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds. While larger pink diamonds tend to be sourced from outside Australia, most of the world’s highest-quality stones were extracted from the Argyle.
Before the pandemic, demand for pink diamonds was already high, largely due to the associated marketing and promotional efforts of the Argyle Mine; however, after the mine's closure — and with the world’s leading source of pink diamonds closed — popularity soared.
In recent years, pink diamonds and pink diamond jewellery have continued to make waves at high-profile auctions. In the past year alone, the following sales occurred:
At Sotheby’s in New York, the Eternal Pink was sold for $USD34.8 million ($AUD53.35 million). The cushion mixed-cut fancy vivid purplish pink diamond weighs 10.57 carats and is set in a ring flanked by trapezoid-shaped diamonds.
At Phillips in Geneva, a ring set with a cut- cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense pink, VVS1 clarity pink diamond weighing 20.19 carats, accented with baguette diamonds, was sold for $USD13.7 million ($AUD21 million).
At Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, a ring set with a cut-cornered modified brilliant-cut fancy intense pink diamond weighing 21.94 carats was sold for $USD11.94 million ($AUD18.3 million).
At Christie’s in Hong Kong, the Pink Supreme Diamond – a ring featuring an internally flawless fancy intense pink cushion-cut diamond of 15.48 carats set in gold - was sold for $USD10.75 million ($AUD16.48 million).
The success of this pink diamond jewellery at international auctions further highlights the appeal these unique stones have not only among Australian consumers but also the wider world.
 |  |
The Adoration Pendant Nina's Fine Diamond Jewellery |
 |
Blush Adelaide Halo Pendant York Jewellers | Argyle Charms Bracelet World Shiner |
 |  |  |
Boghossian Pink Diamonds Calleija | Argyle Pink And White Diamond Ring Ellendale Diamonds | Argyle Pink Diamond Rings Musson Jewellers |
|
Origin story
Jewellery designers take great pride in the pieces they create. With the international spotlight still firmly on pink diamonds, it should be no surprise that these artisans ‘bring out the big guns’ when it comes to these stones.
A select few have been appointed as Argyle Pink Diamonds Select Ateliers – a small circle of master jewellers entrusted with the legacy of pink diamonds.
Fuelled by civic pride and the understanding that these pieces will be viewed alongside some of the world’s most valuable and extravagant jewellery, these designers are willing to spend exhaustive hours ensuring that each piece is perfect.
The Australian origins of pink diamonds have long been important to Justin Linney, creative director of Linney’s in Western Australia.
Linneys is a family-owned manufacturing jeweller established in 1972, with a design studio located in Subiaco. He says that as a jewellery manufacturer, the business always intends to source the finest materials from WA – and pink diamonds suit that philosophy.
When asked if there were any pink diamond jewellery pieces he was particularly proud of, Linney quickly pointed to the Pink Lake Ring.
The piece features a 0.25-carat Argyle pink diamond with a medley of white diamonds, platinum, and white gold.
“The Pink Lake Ring is one of my personal favourite pieces from our Artisan Collection for the contrast of colour and its Linneys signature freeform design,” he tells Jeweller.
“It is one of 50 one-of-a-kind creations from our Artisan Series Collection, each adorned with an Argyle pink diamond and handcrafted at our Subiaco workshop by Alan Linney and our master jewellers.”
It was a similar story for Kimberley Fine Diamonds, established in 1991 by Frauke Bolten-Boshammer and located close to the Argyle Mine.
Kimberley Fine Diamonds proudly considers itself Australia’s ‘most remote diamond house’.
The business crafts jewellery that reflects the colours and contrasts of the state’s outback wilderness.
When asked about her favourite piece, Bolten- Boshammer provided an 18-carat white gold ring set with a 0.33-carat pink champagne baguette diamond. Two white baguette diamonds of 0.33-carat combined weight complete the piece.
She says she loves the sleek lines of the baguette diamonds and the soft tone of the pink champagne. The rarity and size of the pink diamond are, of course, an added bonus.
 |  |
The Eternal Pink Diacore |
 |
Pink Butterfly Brooch Hartmann's | The Pink Lake Ring Linneys |
 |  |  |
The Heart Of Trastevere House Of Cerrone | Argyle Pink And Blue Diamond Ring Mondial | The Satine Angel Musson Jewellers |
|
History lesson
Many Australian jewellers have had long and storied connections with pink diamonds – among them is Olivar Musson of Musson Jewellers in Sydney.
The family behind the business recently celebrated its 50th anniversary, marking the moment with the release of the Diavik Midnight Sun - featuring a hero 18.08-carat fancy intense yellow oval diamond set into a ring featuring a bouquet of 4.09-carats of pink diamonds.
Musson was eager to rewind the clock to 2012 and discuss the Satine Angel, featuring a 1.02-carat fancy intense purplish pink cushion cut diamond. This stone was Lot 2 of Argyle’s 2012 International Diamond Tender.
“Our creation – the Satine Angel – emerged as a testament to the fusion of exquisite craftsmanship and visionary design,” he explains.
“Crafted more than a decade ago, this bespoke design features Satine set east-west across the finger, framed by claw-set clusters of pear-shaped white diamonds, evoking the ethereal beauty of angel wings. Its timeless elegance transcends eras, reflecting the evolving landscape of engagement ring trends and popular setting styles in 2024.”
He continues: “Satine Angel remains a cherished masterpiece in our Argyle Pink Diamond archive, a reflection of our ability to create enduring works of art that will capture hearts and inspire awe for generations to come.”
Also based in Sydney is House of Cerrone, operating Australia’s largest handmade jewellery workshop, elevating the next generation of artisans with apprenticeship programs.
When contacted for this story, Dominique Cerrone drew attention to the Heart of Trastevere, a ring inspired by the tree branches in a town in Rome.
The ring includes a 0.82-carat SI2 Argyle princess cut diamond, a 0.90-carat D VVS2 oval- shaped diamond and a 0.82-carat D VS1 heart- shaped diamond in a claw setting. Each stone is set in 18-carat rose gold.
Cerrone describes the ring as "a harmonious merger of nature and opulence, exuding an enduring sense of beauty and refinement."
Another Australian retailer with a long connection with pink diamonds is Hardy Brothers, founded in Sydney in 1853 and based in Brisbane today.
Wallace Bishop purchased Hardy Brothers in 1997 and has five stores in Australia today. Chief operating officer Alexander Bishop says his favourite is a ring designed by CEO Stuart Bishop for the Vault Collection.
A 0.50-carat fancy intense Argyle pink diamond from Lot 12 is set east-to-west and surrounded by a halo of pink diamonds in 18-carat rose gold. The centre stone sits atop white Asscher cut diamonds in an 18-carat white gold band.
“Aside from the ring's breathtaking beauty, we love how the modern design and cut of the diamonds seamlessly complement the longstanding heritage and allure of the rare Argyle pink diamonds,” Bishop explains.
 |  |
The Vault Collection Hardy Brothers |
 |
Pink Baguette Ring Kimberley Fine Diamonds | Cherry Blossom Brooch Gimel |
 |  |  |
Argyle Elegance Ring J Farren-Price | Pink and White Diamond Ring Mark McAskill | Artemis Argyle Pink Diamond Ring Calleija |
|
Come one, come all
Nina's Fine Diamond Jewellery was among the first to purchase diamonds from the Argyle Diamond Mine, forging a partnership shortly after it opened in 1983.
The business was started in 1966 in Kununurra, a small town in the remote East Kimberley region. Despite the closure of the mine, the passion for Argyle diamonds has continued at Nina’s, now located in Dunsborough.
In January of his year, Nina’s launched Crescendo – an exhibition of ten pieces valued at $AUD1.7 million dollars. The exhibition features more than 400 Argyle pink diamonds in a collection that took more than 500 hours to complete.
Describing the exhibition as a ‘love letter’ to pink diamonds, general manager Shivangi Modi is eager to spread the word about these remarkably rare stones.
“Our point of difference is that we actively encourage people to try our jewellery on – even pieces valued at close to $300,000. Crescendo, while grand, won’t be locked away in a vault,” she tells Jeweller.
“We want people to touch, feel, and see the incredible craftsmanship and discover the hidden details in the extraordinary settings, some of which only the wearer can see.”
When asked about a favourite piece, Modi could not decide between two. The first was the Adoration Pendant, a 0.34-carat fancy intense purplish- pink pear-cut diamond.
Set with 90 Argyle pink diamonds, each tier of this pendant is raised slightly higher than the last, ensuring that the feature stone is always prominently displayed.
The second was a piece known as the Avalon Ring. Shoulder stones are accompanied by an inner halo of 0.08 carat of round-cut pink diamonds set in rose gold.
A 0.24-carat oval-cut pink diamond is enthroned in rose gold claws, adding a final fancy cut to the centre of the geometric arrangement. The hidden pavé-set diamonds adorning the under-bezels in the basket of this ring are a ‘marriage of form and function’.
“The pieces in Crescendo are representative of the care and quality taken with all of Nina's creations. It’s a collection of distinctive pieces containing a multitude of tiny details that combine into one extraordinary whole, a creation of sublime beauty,” she explains.
“Starting with a single or matched pair of hero Argyle pink diamonds, each piece is created to reflect a 360-degree thought process and made right here in our Dunsborough workshop by our master jewellers.”
 |  |
Pink Diamond Ring Bulgari |
 |
Argyle Pink Diamond Rings Pink Kimberley | Australian Princess Necklace Linneys |
 |  |  |
The Avalon Ring Nina's Fine Diamond Jewellery | Pink Posterity Ring James Thredgold | Stackable Rings Ellendale Diamonds |
|
Word spreads fast
As previously mentioned, pink diamonds have consistently made international headlines at fine jewellery auctions over the past year.
The examples given earlier are just a few of the significant sales. A Bulgari ring featuring a fancy intense pink emerald-cut diamond of 6.99 carats, with baguette-cut diamonds set in platinum, was also sold for $USD10.52 million ($AUD16.12 million) at Christie’s in Hong Kong.
Another ring – this time set with a round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy vivid purplish pink diamond weighing 5.01 carats - was also sold in Hong Kong for $USD6.46 million ($AUD9.9 million).
The pink diamond phenomenon has also spread as far as Denmark, where Hartmann’s operates in Copenhagen.
Owner Ulrik Hartmann says that one particular piece is always prominent in his mind when discussing pink diamonds.
“Hartmann's Pink Butterfly Brooch is not just a piece of jewellery; it's a masterpiece, a testament to unparalleled craftsmanship. Among the treasures in our Argyle Pink Collection, this brooch stands out as my absolute favourite,” he tells Jeweller.
“Adorned with a stunning combination of 9.81 carats of Argyle pink and blue diamonds and 3.85 carats of white diamonds, this brooch celebrates elegance and sophistication.
He added: “What sets it apart is the intricate design that allows the wings to move gracefully, mirroring the delicate flutter of a real butterfly.”
It’s clear from these responses that the majesty of pink diamonds brings out the best in jewellery designers.
The popularity and value of the stones encourage artisans to test their skills and to create timeless works of art. The result is some of the world's most eye-catching fine jewellery.
As the old saying goes, beginning with audacity is a great part of the art of painting, and describing many of these pieces as audacious may indeed be an understatement.
However, there’s little doubt that this willingness to push boundaries when creating pink diamond jewellery has contributed to the ongoing popularity of these rare and elusive stones long after the closure of the Argyle mine.
READ EMAG